When we mentioned to people that we were going to be teaching journalism in the Maldives, the common reactions were:

“Ooohhh, I’m so jealous! I’ve heard those beaches are amazing!”

“Haha, no way! Maybe I’ll apply to teach journalism in Seychelles… or Mauritius!”

“The Maldives! That’s where I want to go on my honeymoon.”

Well, while it’s true that this image of the Maldives isn’t entirely wrong, we’ve come to the conclusion that the Maldives is, in fact, four countries in one. Here are the four types of islands that you’ll find in the Maldives. They all have their pros and cons.

1) The Maldives of the resort islands

-Yes, these resort islands offer the postcard views we’ve all seen before: turquoise waters, strikingly white sand, swaying palm trees, cute bungalows built over water… and it’s here where you can live the high life: indulge in the extravagant buffets and sip colorful cocktails as you watch the sunset. Ahh, the life.

Pros: All the above, plus often amazing snorkeling as the reefs are well maintained (some resorts are even experimenting with growing new coral reefs electronically).

Cons: The cost. These resorts often cost several hundred dollars per night. Luckily we have made friends in high places and have managed to arrange several free visits to some amazing resorts! Another con is the lack of local flavor –these resorts could be anywhere: Seychelles, Mauritius, Thailand or Tahiti.

2) The local Maldivian islands

Most would agree that this is the real Maldives. On the local islands you’ll see everyday people doing traditional everyday things: old men pushing a dhoni (a local boat) into water, women weaving thatched roofs out of palm tree leaves,  people hanging out in “jollyfattys” (kind of like hammocks, but only big enough for you to sit in. The name probably hints at the type of person you’ll become if you spend too much time in one…). You’ll notice that most women will wear a headscarf (called a buruga here) and older men will wear a skirt/kilt of sorts.

Pros: It’s easy to meet local people, most of whom are really warm and friendly. Seeing the locals go about their daily business is also really interesting and you never know what you’ll see next (like fishermen returning from sea with a huge catch!). These small island Maldivians are also are eager to teach you some Dhivehi words. If you manage to arrange a local house to eat in, you’ll get to try some of the tastiest Maldivian food there is (forget greasy restaurant food!): fish curries, home-made “chili-onion-tuna” mash called mashuni and Indian-style roshi bread. And if you are nice, the local may even invite you for a delicious fish barbeque!

Cons: Fuggehdabbout swimming in pristine waters. The beaches often serve as a trash dump for the local islanders as you can read here. The same people that used to throw their fish remains and coconut husks in the sea are now throwing in baby diapers, plastic bottles and clothes that have become unfashionable. Even if you find some trash-free stretch of a beach to swim in, wearing a swimsuit is not allowed. You’ll have to go in with all your clothes (but don’t worry, you’ll get used to it soon enough. And swimming with clothes on also allows for extra spontaneity –if you feel a sudden urge to take a dip in the turquoise waters, there’s no need to go home first to change into your swimsuit!).

3) Picnic islands/uninhabited islands

If you ever wanted to pretend to be Robinson Crusoe, these islands offer the best opportunity for such existence. Empty beautiful beaches, palm trees, coconuts, the most turquoise waters you’ve ever seen. Just you and the nature. (And some sunbeds, if you happen to visit a well-kept picnic island. This usually means that you have to pay $10 for the ranger to help maintain the island. Oddly enough, Maldivians themselves have to pay a few dollars more than tourists!)

Pros: These islands offer beaches as nice as the resorts, without the canoodling German and British couples. If you go mid-week, you’ll most likely have the island all to yourself as Maldivians only come here on weekends.

Cons: These islands are a bit hard to get to, unless you have some local friends. Even then, you’ll need to rent a dhoni, which can be pricey if you are by yourself ($60 for the day). Also, even the picnic islands (uninhabited islands that have a caretaker) sometimes have their share of trash as picnicking people leave some behind or the ocean washes a ton of water bottles on the shore.

4) Male’

Oh, Male’, Male’, Male’. We hate you and we love you. The second most densely populated capital in the world (or so), Male’  is a place like no other. Here you’ll see what it takes to squeeze 100,000 people and thousands of motorbikes into one square mile.

Pros: If you like shopping, restaurants and cafes, Male’ is as close to city life as you’ll get in the Maldives. It also has a sea wall to protect the island from big waves (a good thing to have, in case there’s any risk of a tsunami approaching). The beach is okay (though man-made) and there are tons of people in Male’ for you to hang out with, both friendly Maldivians and expats from all over the world. This is also the hub of local politics and all the drama associated with it. Though there are no bars or discos, the city has a few pretty cool restaurants, such as the Holiday Inn rooftop bar/restaurant that has an infinity swimming pool overlooking Male’. The French-influenced Aioli is another nice place to go for dinner. Eating out is also relatively cheap here, so that’s a bonus. And for those who crave a beer here and there, Hulhule Island Hotel on the airport island is just a short boat ride away. It’s the only place outside the resorts where alcohol is legal. And although the constant stream of motorbikes can stress you out, we have to admit that riding in the back of one is pretty exciting!

Cons: Male’ is about as un-idyllic as a tropical island can be. The buildings obstruct your view of the sea, the motorbikes and cars are constantly trying to overtake you and, as the city is ever-expanding, you’ll never be far from the noise of construction. Life here can also get a bit claustrophobic, as there are no wide open spaces, other than the football stadium and another set of sports fields. The movie theater only plays Maldivian movies, and even those pretty rarely. A random observation: The Male’ people seem to clear their throats and spit a lot more than people on local islands.

So there you go, take your pick! Or better yet, do as we did –visit all the four different Maldives! It’s hard to name a favorite, as we have had some pretty awesome times in each!